Monday, July 26, 2010

The last entry...

I am having the darndest time uploading photos to this blog. Check out my facebook photos. They're all there.

At any rate, we're home and glad to be here. It's been a wonderful experience. One that we wouldn't have been able to get by simply touring. We have gotten to know people, personally and professionally. Got to see what life is like - at least this little slice of it - and what the people are like. Makes me wish I spoke Chinese. But we did just fine most times.

By far, I enjoyed the people the most (although the history, culture, and architecture was cool too). There were some marvelous individuals I got to meet who were kind, generous with their time and courtesy, funny, caring, etc.

We had some adventures the last week we were there that hadn't made it to the blog posts: THE CAB RIDE: forever know as such with Linda Conley, Brian FitzGerald, Julia and Olivia... Funny if it wasn't so dang sad!

Extra trips to the Silk Road market and TGI Fridays. Fun shopping and then dinner with cheeseburgers and a "real" bathroom!

One thing we decided for sure: living in China is much harder than living our little life here. Going to the grocery, finding a place to eat dinner, even relaxing... everything is just harder. We don't think twice about jumping in the car and going to do something. There, it all requires a plan.

And the pollution of Beijing took its toll on us. The city is very dirty and smoggy. There is a film of dirt over everything that is next to impossible to keep up with cleaning. I gave up about two weeks before we left. Hate living in such a mess. Silver lining: the girls have pledged to keep their rooms clean because even they didn't like the dirt! HA!

Well, I am still on Beijing time, sort of... My days and nights are confused and I am working to reacclimate. I love the blue skies of Minnesota!

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Back Lakes

Near the Forbidden City... a very beautiful location...

Back Lakes Region


Hutong, again

There are so many more photos... but at the rate of only uploading one at a time... I give up for now! lol

Hutong Streets


More scenes from the Hutong


Jeanne Baby... Fashion Plate of the Hutong!

With her roasted chestnut...

"Hutong Eats" Tour

Today is Sunday. We spent the day touring around the back alleyways (hutongs) of Beijing. With our guide, Jin, we wandered part of the Back Lake region near the Forbidden City, had lunch (an array of snacks) at a lovely little local cafe. We then continued on to a number of Hutongs and tried a variety of little snacks local to the area and further afield. We ended at a Taiwanese Tea House, where we sampled a few other specialties, including fruit drinks and a treat that resembles yogurt (Wen Yu Cheese) but was way better.

It was a fun day, although, it shouldn't be a surprise anymore, but it was HOT. Julia and I splurged on a taxi home while Jeanne and Olivia explored and shopped.

The hutongs, in and of themselves, were an experience we were glad to have seen. They are still inhabited with many, many families who often share community bathrooms and kitchens. Because of the location near the lakes and the palaces, the real estate is incredibly valuable but the residents live very meagerly. There is a definite sense of community. Some of the hutongs are filled with lovely little shops and others are more "rustic."  Either way, they definitely have character. I will post some photos.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

From Olivia's bday dinner....

TGI Friday's in Beijing.... The knife is our "candle" - it was a very happy meal for Ms. Olivia!

Peking Duck! Acrobats! Silk Road! Oh, my!

Well, after having spent the last two days primarily horizontal, laid out with this dang cold, I ventured not only upright, but out into the world.
 
Jeanne and Olivia toured (and toured and toured) hot spots in Beijing today. Julia (who is also coming down with dreaded ailment) and I rested and met them late this afternoon at the Silk Road/Market. I picked up my lovely custom made silk items (SO beautiful) and had the jeweler fix a previous purchase. We then headed off to meet "Lucy" our tour guide.
 
We ate at a restaurant in a park and have the most wonderful meal we've had since coming to China. A number of items - pork, beef, rice, spring rolls, - and the famous Peking Duck. And it was just marvelous. Following dinner, Lucy and the driver brought us to the Chinese Acrobatic show. That was very fun. Impressive feats, lovely young ladies and gentlemen, and overall, a very entertaining time.
 
But we were glad to be "home" again - especially Olivia and Jeanne who had logged exactly 17k miles today (j.k.). Julia and I are also glad for another chance to rest and kick this cold-thing.
 
Tomorrow it's the Hutong Eats tour... Sounds fun. (Hoping there's no need for the Immodium, though! lol)
 
OH.... I didn't mention... Friday, I got locked IN my apartment! I was resting with this cold thing-y... Julia, Olivia, and Jeanne left to explore and they locked the door from the outside. There are two locks. One you lock from the inside and can unlock. One that locks from the outside and can only be unlocked from the outside. So, I took it as a sign that I wasn't supposed to go to work. I slept and read instead. Funny thing... never would have expected that!
 
- Jackie

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Spare you the Photo

Go figure... I've got a nasty cold and am still here in China. Ugh. You know how it is when you don't feel well... all you want is your own bed and little familiar comforts? But I won't post the photo... I scare myself when I look in the mirror. When the girls left with Jeanne earlier to go explore, Olivia told me not to die on her while they were gone. Must look even worse to those who can see out of their eyes.
 
Glad Jeanne made it here safe and sound. We're happy she's here. We've got a full slate of adventure ahead, some things we've already seen and others new to us: Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, silk market, Peking Duck, Chinese acrobatic show, Hutong Eats food tour, Great Wall (girls are going with Jeanne again. hoping for sunshine this time).
 
Should be good times! And I love that Julia and Olivia are confident enough to show Jeanne how to get the bus and the subway and the market today! World travelers, they are now...

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Great wall, again


Great Wall, more

 

Great Wall


Wall Photos... The GREAT Wall!


She turned 14 on the 14th... On the Great Wall of China!

A birthday she'll never forget, she says. And how could she? Despite the overcast day, the fact remains we hiked to the top of Badaling, the Great Wall. As we were in the clouds, we got some rain but it helped cool us. We took the funny little slide cars to the bottom. Probably could have walked down in 1/8 the time we waited in line... oh well!
 
We also found her an American dinner: cheeseburger, fries, cup of clam chowder, and ice cream cake and brownies for dessert. She got to pick out part two of her birthday gift at the silk and pearl market.
 
We're tired but it was a great day. (I know we all could have gone without the sardines-in-a-can feeling of the subway and bus, but it is what it is....)
 
j.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Dumpster vs Hampster

Sometimes the funniest things happen in translation!  Bing was telling us about a Frenchman interviewing for a summer school job. He asked Bing what he could do with his dumpster during the day. He was worried about the dumpster dying during the day. Bing thought the dumpster should just run on the wheel for the day and it would be fine.
 
Ummm...okay. We know now he meant hampster!

Sunday, July 11, 2010

the Silk Road

After yesterday, we weren't sure our feet were up for another day walking. But we did it anyway.

We visited the "Silk Road" which is really a multi-story market filled with vendors peddling all sorts of stuff: clothes, shoes, handbags, luggage, jewelry, kitschy touristy things, and, yes, even silk.
 
I even ordered a couple of custom items from a dressmaker/tailor. That was so much fun. Can't wait till the fitting on Tuesday. Feel a little guilty about the price because I imagine some "sweatshop" place where it's actually created.
 
It was a lot of fun despite the crowds (which I am certain could have been much worse, but it was another rainy day which I think kept some people away). We learned to haggle for a price. The girls hated that aspect of it at first, but then got better with a little practice. The first prices that the vendors quote are positively ridiculous. If you know that you can get down to 1/3 or 1/4 the price with a little time and effort, it's worth it. I just consider "what's the price that I would feel good about paying for this?" and it seemed to work. 
 
I think that the girls really enjoyed watching all the people. They weren't thrilled with being constantly harangued by the vendors, though.
 
We had a Chinamerican lunch in the cafeteria at the market, which proceeded to make me and Olivia ill. Never was so glad to see "facilities" once we got off the subway and bus in my life! 
 
We're down to one weekend left in China. The girls go back to kindergarten (for their volunteer experience) and I am back to work tomorrow.
 
We're looking forward to the Great Wall on Wednesday (Olivia's golden birthday) and Jeanne arrives from St. Paul on Thursday. We will be doing a "hutong eats" food tour while she is here and I am thinking about a Peking Duck dinner and Chinese Acrobatics exhibition evening one night.
 
Oh, and we have a layover in Tokyo on our return flight. I know, it's only the airport, but we're counting it!
 
Hope all is well at home!

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Today's adventures: into the Heart of Chinese History

I'd be lying if I said that history of the sites we saw today, with their deep, rich past motivated me most. Really, the aesthetics are what got me. Absolutely beautiful, intricately detailed, brightly colored buildings, halls, walls, ceilings, thrones, altars, etc. Almost impossible to describe. And, unfortunately, the photos don't do them justice due to the gray skies (however, we're SO grateful for the rain, as it made the trip more manageable than the heat of last Saturday when we went to the Summer Palace).
 
The Forbidden City, to me, seemed like a magnum version of Russian nesting dolls; keep going up and over the stairs and through the gates into yet another set of walls and courtyards and palaces; on and on they opened up one into another. We imagined the palaces and courtyards filled with people and wondered what they would have been doing thousands of years ago. Pretty cool to know that we're walking on the cobblestones that Ancient Chinese Emperors and their court did also walk.
 
We wandered around the streets of Beijing east of the Forbidden City (the girls will tell you I got them lost looking for the subway) and explored entrances to hutongs (little alleyways that wander back and back and back) and found one of the fancier shopping districts - Wangfoujin area.
 
The girls were looking for some familiar food. We had a beverage at Starbucks (for twice what we'd pay in the states) and dinner at .... wait for it.... not something you'd every expect from us.... yes, McDonald's. We laughed at the irony of it, when usually at home the girls crave "Chinese" food and avoid fast food like the plague. We know better now, though, to call it Chinerican food from now on. It was strangely satisfying. I, however, am craving a Caprese Salad. With basil from my balcony pots.
 
We stopped to get a few essentials at the market, which was where we found ALL the other people in Beijing who had formerly been at the Forbidden City and then on the subway. We discovered that crowded subways only mean you push to get in. Never experienced that in the London tube, have to say.
 
By the time we got home, though, we were all limping along like we had just run a marathon without any training. I was sagging at the knee on the subway and had some locals yield their seat to me. I tried to decline their generous offer, but they truly meant it. It was incredibly kind. Makes me smile to think about that "what comes around, goes around" or "paying it forward," as, in the past week, Olivia and I each voluntarily gave up our seats to some people who needed them more than we did. Interconnectedness can take the smallest things and make them be something significant.
 
Anyway, we were so tired when we got home, we thought we're done for the weekend. But now we're playing with the idea of visiting the Ming tombs tomorrow. We'll see...
 
And how are you doin'?

Me and My Girls


The Girls in Front of a MAJOR Palace!


The Forbidden City - All 3 of us!


Tianamen Square photos


The Forbidden City

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Living in China... permanently?

No, I am not doing that. But it occurred to me recently that a long-term gig here would be very do-able... for the right person under the right circumstances.
 
My colleagues here have made it very easy for me with the language issue. A person staying would definitely have to pick up Chinese, though, which I think would not be a simple proposition. I am getting to understand the rhythms of the language and can understand a fair amount through context and body language, but I stumble over the Pinying combinations of letters. They are not natural or easy for me, even with names which I am generally very good at remembering.
 
Getting around and getting what we need has been fairly straightforward. Dealing with things like the electric company, etc., would be trickier without Chinese language skills.
 
Living in our own place would mean that we could make it ours and therefore more comfortable on a daily basis. Simple things...a more functional kitchen, bathroom with shelves, a bath mat, lamps in the living room. These are not necessities by any means, but are what my mom would call "creature comforts."
 
The one thing I miss the most right now: being able to walk barefoot around the house at the end of the day!

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

The best part of a 2-hour lunch is getting naked!

Easy, now kids.... this is a family show...
 
So lunch in the cafeteria is a noon. BRS has given us an account so we get to eat on their tab. Then everyone goes back to their dorms/apartments and naps till 2 p.m. 
 
Because the AC in our apartment works so well, I use the time to stretch out, sans vetements, and reduce my body heat by about 50%!
 
Even the girls, who have claimed to detest naps, are taking naps regularly!
 
Ah, the little things!
 

Meet your local Chinese police!

We had surprise visitors this evening. Two police men and another man checking my visa. Apparently the girls' registration had gone through just fine but they didn't have notice of mine. (You have to register shortly after arriving in the country.) Odd, indeed. So, I found myself having to give the girls instructions about what to do if they came back for me! I am too cute to end up in a Chinese (or any, for that matter) jail! I don't even have any cigarettes for jail money. What's a girl to do?
 
On another note, I have gotten tan. Okay, well, tan infers a nice warm healthy glow,so maybe not so much tan... My pasty white legs are now ghastly grey.
 
And, the temp dropped today. To about 85F. Which felt like October in Minnesota compared to what the heat has been like. They're predicting rain for the next couple of days and we are hoping it's the case.
 
We cooked dinner again tonight. Only the second time since we've been here. The girls have been craving meat, especially beef. I can see them diving into cheeseburgers and pizza when we get home!
 
They started their volunteerism at the BRS kindergarten today. They both enjoyed it and it's good to see the difference in them having something to do with their day. Such cute little ones that they are working with!
 
As for the work, I am making continued progress. (Found myself getting a little whiney today about the heat... ) This is such an enormous undertaking the school and staff are in the middle of... I only hope that what I can offer will be of some relief to them.
 
Our plans for the weekend include Tianamen Square and the Forbidden City. It's supposed to rain lightly. We're hoping so...

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

BRS's Year-End Banquet

It hit home tonight that we are in the middle of a remarkable experience here in China. We were invited to join the school staff at the year-end celebration. The banquet was held at a nearby restaurant.
 
There were several speeches by the head of the school, Mr. Wang. At least 16 different dishes at each table. Soda, tea, Chinese wine, and beer flowed freely. There's a marvelous tradition of each table moving from one table to the next, toasting each other. Then if your table gets toasted, you are sure to return the gesture. The entire table approaches another and toasts them all together and one on one. There is laughter, camaraderie, joking, and sincere appreciation for the work that was done over the course of the year.
 
We are not tourists on this journey; we don't necessarily "belong" either. But we are guests in the best sense of the word. We are able to participate in aspects of every day Chinese life that we would never experience staying at a 5-star hotel. People we meet are gracious and warm. They are curious and accommodating. They are smart and funny.
 
We are so incredibly fortunate to be a part of this partnership.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Lessons hidden in the mysteries of Beijing electrical

Today was a great day at work. What needs to be done and how to get there seems to be getting clearer and today I feel like I made a few steps in the right direction.
 
The girls came to meet me for lunch. They had done a little cleaning around here in the morning. They are really ready for something else to do during the day when I am working. There's a chance they could help out with the kindergarten kiddies.
 
Anyhooo.... when I got home from work, the girls informed me that the electric had been off since 2:30 p.m.  and it was about 6 at this time. Okay... did I mention it was about 97 F? And the AC runs via electricity? Ergh. So, made a couple of phone calls and then "talked" with the electrician who speaks as much English as I do Chinese. A few more phone calls on our behalf and my colleague had a plan. So, we waited. In the heat. And the dark. Did I mention that it's not only hot, but humid in China? About 9 tonight we got electricity again. I love electricity. I love air conditioning.
 
And, of course, the lesson was having to just sit. And trust that other people will help because I couldn't help myself. And, of course, they did. Things have a way of working out if we let them. Yeah, it's still me over here...
 
Could be the heat. I don't move too fast in it.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Happy 4th of July

Today was my 42nd birthday! Thanks to everyone for the well wishes. It was a great day... Hope your Fourth is great!
 
The girls and I were lazy this morning. We got up talked to some folks on Skype for a bit, had a bite to eat and took naps. Then we ventured out into the ridiculous heat again. Only one bus to get to the shopping center. We explored this sprawling place and had a great lunch at a restaurant on the 6th level. Got some groceries and took the bus home. Watched a movie and had dinner, followed by birthday cake.
 
The best part of my birthday was spending it with my girls! They made it their goal to make my day special. And not a word about missing the fireworks or celebrations back home. We had some really wonderful and heartfelt conversations. It has once again renewed my appreciation of these two wonderful young ladies.
 
This, even without the rest of the experience, is worth the trip to China!

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Summer Palace


Summer Palace

Today Olivia yanked Julia out of bed! Woo Hoo... that's probably a first. It was our plan to get an early start on the day. Our first adventure on our own in Beijing.
 
It took us 1 bus and 3 subway transfers to get to the stop we thought was closest to the Summer Palace. But... er, no. That was not the one. The "helpful" Americans in the Tourist Information Center, not only budged in line but then proceeded to make the poor Chinese woman helping us frustrated. Erg. As it turns out, we were one stop away from where we needed to be. It was only 9:30 a.m. and it was already deadly hot.
 
So, popped back on the subway to the right exit. No signs about which way to the Summer Palace, but we knew we were in the right area because of the multitude of bicycle/cart/taxi drivers trying to earn a fare. We (repeatedly) turned them down and walked in the direction they were driving others. (ha)
 
We will try to upload a photo or two but not having good luck with it right now. The Palace was magnificient. It's more than a palace, really. More like a National park (it's a World Heritage site). It has a very large lake in the center. Boats (including the ornate dragonboat we rode) cross the lake. The ancient palace building are amazing in their detail. Who would have thought to paint each rafter on the staircase?
 
Olivia insisted we climb to the top of the Temple of Buddha's Incense. We took it in fits and starts, as it was WAY up there. Beautiful architecture, overwhelming detail, and those "National Geographic" scenes you'd expect. We took a ton of photos. Some turned out well, others not so well due to the hazy day.
 
There was an outdoor hallway called the "Long Corridor" that went on for miles. It, too, was painted in detail with little scenes. Visitors appreciated the shade. We sat underneath it several times.
 
I don't know if we're getting used to the stares and giggles yet, but Julia and Olivia are getting a taste of what it's like to be the target of papparazzi. They had many families asking them to take a picture with them. Some just took photos without asking. There was a small group of visitors (probably from Africa) who I am guessing got about as much attention for their dark skin as we got for our light skin and different features. One old man asked if we were Russian. Hmmm. Well, no, not at all. His English was limited but he wanted me to know I had beautiful daughters. (I know that! But it was sweet. If not a little creepy...)
 
We walked across the 17 Arches/Pillars Bridge and decided we were ready to head home. We saw the main things we wanted to see but left many things not seen. Maybe when Jeanne comes she and the girls will take another stab at it.
 
The day was nearly brought down, though, by a positively dreadful walk back to the subway. It was unbearably hot. I don't know how else to describe it. We walked and walked and walked.... all the way back to the subway station we inadvertently got off at too early on our way there. And, despite the fact that we had each drunk 3 waters and a lemonade during our walk, we were bordering on heat stroke. Not kidding. Thankfully, the subway was cool and we started to feel okay. Decided to take a taxi for the last haul rather than the bus. Now, an hour later, everyone is recovered well enough.
 
We are feeling lazy and will probably look at a movie tonight. Tomorrow, still thinking about the shopping center. IF we can bear the thought of public transport tomorrow. We'll leave that till morning to decide.
 
J. and j. and o.

Friday, July 2, 2010

All kinds of similars...

I think I was prepared for things to be very, very different here. And, I suppose, they are. But I am noticing many more similarities than I expected.
 
Here are my top 3 for today.
 
People are kind and want to understand.
 
Doing good work well is a gift.
 
A good laugh is universal!
 
Things that are different... well, it's the little things, no? Bringing your own toilet tissue. Squatting over said "toilet." Finding a knife to spread peanut butter... next to impossible unless it's a chef's knife. Brushing your teeth with bottled water. Oh, the bed... I am actually sleeping (more or less) on what feels like lightly batted plywood. (Man, I LOVE my tempurpedic!)
 
Tomorrow, we'll go exploring the Summer Palace. Apparently, it's take the BRT 3 to the subway line 5 to the subway line 10 to the subway line 4. Uh-huh. Well, we can do it!
 
Tonight, we'll might go back to the shopping center. Or save that for Sunday? Sounds like a good way to spend a birthday/4th of July!